A shoe

By Florida Weekly Staff | on May 18, 2023

The costumes of Gary Marion, aka Sushi, will be on display at the Key West Art & Historical Society May 31-June 30. ROB O’NEAL / FLORIDA KEYS NEWS BUREAU

For 25 years, Gary Marion, aka Sushi, electrified tens of thousands of onlookers with glitzy New Year's Eve send-offs.

Of all the island's annual drops — giant conch shells, wenches and even a Key lime pie — it was a glittering red shoe that served the most fashionable and headline-grabbing moments. After last year's surprise retirement, Sushi is ready for a retrospective. "Sushi in the Shoe" will take viewers at the Key West Art & Historical Society's Customs House through a quarter century's worth of costumes and moments from the yearly celebration. In this conversation, Sushi opened up about the surprises of putting on this show, the cremation of one year's look, and even an ensemble that could have been used to welcome 2024.

I have the NYE champagne cork from 2018. Have you ever followed up with where the corks wind up?

Sushi: I actually don't buy the champagne. It's always been a gift from Joey Schroeder every year. I don't follow up on the where the corks end up but I have had about six people through the years say they have my cork. I’ve also had people come up to me and say I’ve got your fake boobs you threw out one year [laughs].

The costumes of Gary Marion, aka Sushi, will be on display at the Key West Art & Historical Society May 31-June 30. ROB O’NEAL / FLORIDA KEYS NEWS BUREAU

How many versions make it to the final stage?

Sushi: I always seriously start thinking about it Nov. 1, start with color then year or period and move to materials and final concept by December 1. I order the fabrics and start cutting a pattern for the dress. I used to start making the dress in November but I would usually make two or sometimes three. I learned years ago to take my time with just one dress.

I worked in New York City for seven years during fall and spring fashion week. I loved working in high fashion but I consider myself more of a costume designer. I’m actually starting next week with the Key West Youth Theater program to be the costume designer for their summer program by The Studios of Key West.

How early on into last year did you know you were retiring from the shoe?

Sushi: I knew new year's prior that year was going to be my last. I waited for the last two years to retire to make it to 25 years. I thought it was a good number. I was so excited to make my finale dress.

You’ve said before that the outfits you regret the most were ones off the rack. Would that hold true today?

Sushi: Out of the four off the rack outfits I’ve worn, I still wish I had the time to make them. I really enjoy the creative process of doing drag. For me, half of doing drag is creating the overall mode of the look I’m going for so, yes. I still regret not having the time those years to make the dress.

Which outfit was the most difficult to track down for the exhibit?

Sushi: I have 20 out of the 25 years. One of my favorite New Year's Eve gowns was cremated with one of my drag queens who said, "When I die, I would like to be cremated in that." Another was stolen by a queen who left town. And two, I have no clue what happened. The rest were kept in storage in my New Year's Eve box in my attic.

Could you elaborate on the cremated gown?

Sushi: It was Destiny, a drag queen who worked for me for 10 years. Her mother was a prostitute and had sold her into child porn. She had a rough life and finally felt safe for the first time. I was happy to cremate her in the purple and green lace Chanel material dress. I was fortunate enough to find that Chanel fabric in Miami that was three seasons old. Colby did her wig and Cissey did her nails. I did her makeup at the funeral home on Simonton. I’m just glad it went with Destiny.

What would you say to the queen who made off with one of your gowns?

Sushi: I would tell that queen who snuck out of my house and stole a lot of outfits when I was in New York City to give them back, bitch.

How much of these will feature in the exhibit?

Sushi: There will be 15 years of dresses and 25 years of photos and multimedia. Lots of artwork from local artists and tons of other posters, flyers and newspaper clippings. The wigs are being redone because they don't last as long [laughs]. have a kimono that was given to me by my drag sister Vogue that is from the 1920s. The fabric is so old, it's starting to disintegrate.

One year featured a sort of Key lime green gown and it's been used heavily in promotional works since. What made that one work so well?

Sushi: I love that gown. It's been featured in the TDC campaign that went to a lot of gay pride events all over the country and world. I love that gown because I made the strip myself out of five different kinds of material to make it unique. Some out of bicycle reflective tape.

One of Sushi's early looks was this Asian-inspired frock. COURTESY PHOTO

Going back to the finale dress, it's one of my favorites because it spoke to the times. The almost reflective nature that turned the "lens" back or mirrored the audience. Was there any hidden symbolism?

Sushi: I based it off a medieval queen dress at least in the silhouette. It was silver mirror Mylar on black velvet. Silver anniversary and a Bozo the Clown wig. try not to look into my subconscious to seek the meaning of why I came up with that look [laughs].

Were there other garments that definitely signaled how you felt that year or the national mood?

Sushi: I try to follow what's going on in fashion and politics and sort of combine what is going on in the world. Of course, I try not to discuss it with anyone but myself and sometimes my husband.

You’ve posted of late about the rising anti-drag queen sentiment in Florida. If you were making a garment this year, would it nod to this?

Sushi: I really haven't thought about it but maybe something pink with triangles to symbolize the struggles that gay men and queens had to go through in World War II, when decent people looked the other way when people were being discriminated against. It feels like the movement has taken a step backward and no one cares, but maybe just a simple dress that doesn't mean anything.

Were there specific outfits you were most surprised to see again photographed in your archive?

Sushi: Yes, I totally forgot about a dress that I handpainted in my backyard. It was 30 feet long and Qmitch just sent a picture of it on Facebook. I’m still being surprised by outfits I totally forgot about [laughs].

If you could send any one of your garments to a museum or runway, which dress would you send?

Sushi: If they ever open up a national gay museum, I would be honored to have any one of my dresses and statement about the shoe drop and Key West and how I had a small part in making drag acceptable on national TV.

Which of your dresses would you want to appear on-screen in an adaptation of your life?

Sushi: I want all my costumes to appear in my television adaptation, from the first dress I made when I was 17 going in drag to an underage night club made from a pillowcase, to the last one when I turn 80 years old to sit in the 50th shoe drop in 25 years. ¦

— Interview has been edited and condensed.

In the KNOW

"Sushi in the Shoe"

» When: May 31-June 30

» Where: Key West Art & Historical Society, 281 Front St., Key West.

» Cost: Adults, $17 ($15.50 online); senior/local/college ID/retired military, $13 ($11.50 online); youth (ages 7-18): $9 ($7.50 online); children (under 7), active military and KWAHS members, free. Info: 305-295-6616 or kwahs.org/exhibitions/ sushi

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Comment

Name *

Email *

Website

Δ